Laser hair removal for darker skin tones

The principle of all hair-removal lasers is to destroy the hair follicle and burn it permanently (photothermolysis). The wavelength is chosen so that the photon energy is absorbed by melanin, the black pigment in hair, which explains why laser hair removal does not work on white, blond or light-colored hair.

The problem is that melanin is also the natural pigment of ethnic, dark or matte skins, corresponding to skin phototypes 4 to 6.

These are the same pigments found in the tanning of fair skins, only the concentration is altered.
This melanin, produced by specialized skin cells called melanocytes, is therefore also at risk of being targeted by depilatory laser energy.

If precautions are not taken, laser hair removal for dark skins presents several dangers:

• that of undifferentiated destruction of melanin in hair and skin, resulting in partial depigmentation that is aesthetically similar to vitiligo ;
• that of burning the skin, as its protective pigment, natural melanin, is destroyed;
• the risk of rebound reactions after treatment, notably post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), resulting in heterogeneous, unsightly pigmentation.

This is why the alexandrite laser has long been contraindicated on ethnic skins.
The solution is to work with a laser emitting at a different wavelength, such as the Nd:Yag laser with which Dr. Santini is also equipped.

Dr. Christelle Santini in Paris always checks your skin tone before each hair removal protocol. On dark and ethnic skins, she will also work with lower fluences (power/duration of laser shots), to preserve skin melanin while destroying hair.

Thanks to her medical and dermatological knowledge, Dr Christelle Santini guarantees real added value in setting up the protocol, so as to avoid unnecessary sessions that are too close together, for example. The number of sessions depends not only on hair density, but also on the length of the hair cycle, which varies from one area of the body to another.

To remove unwanted hair from darker skins, it may be necessary to reduce the power or duration (fluence) of the shots: this means slightly extending the protocol, with 1 to 3 sessions more than for lighter skins.

On average, 6 to 10 sessions are needed, spaced 4 to 8 weeks apart: during the preliminary consultation, Dr Christelle Santini will assess the number of appointments required, and if necessary reassess the interval between two laser sessions according to the results observed.

Dr. Santini offers this type of laser primarily for naturally darker, darker skins, whether ethnic or black.

In practice, this chromatic continuum corresponds to phenotypes 4 to 6, ranging from Mediterranean to African skins (morphotypes).

She can also propose this protocol for lighter skins that have temporarily increased pigmentation:

• summer-tanned skin;
• Hormonal pigmentation such as melasma or chloasma (pregnancy mask);
• pathological pigmentation, such as Addison's disease.

As a general rule, patients with fair skin are best advised to start laser hair removal when their skin is not tanned: this enables them to achieve their objectives more quickly, with smooth, clear skin.

Dr. Santini's practice in the 16th arrondissement of Paris is equipped with an Nd:YAG laser for hair removal from darker skin types, in particular phototypes 5 and 6.

This is a solid-state laser with an yttrium-aluminum garnet crystal, emitting mainly infrared light at a coherent, amplified wavelength of 1640 nm. It offers two operating modes, with either pulsed or continuous emission, enabling customized hair removal for ethnic skins.

Choosing an aesthetic doctor for permanent hair removal for darker skin types guarantees a triple benefit:

• use of a high-performance, safe Nd:Yag medical laser, unlike an alexandrite laser or IPL flash lamp;
• perfect knowledge of skin and hair physiology, with precise phototype analysis;
• medical and dermatological examination to optimize session duration and laser fluence, so as to avoid unnecessary sessions.

Laser hair removal remains a medical procedure, and Dr. Santini takes every precaution to protect the skin, especially from any risk of burns or depigmentation. In particular, she stresses the importance of avoiding the sun before and after sessions, as melanocytes in ethnic skin are by nature more active.

Permanent laser hair removal offers many advantages over conventional methods:

• it's simpler, with an almost definitive look;
• it's less painful, with a cooling system integrated into the Nd:Yag laser handpiece;
• it's more aesthetic, with pimple-free hair removal and no ingrown hairs: ethnic skins, which are thicker and oilier, often have this type of complication with conventional hair removal;
• it's healthier, with no potentially depigmenting or irritating chemicals.

Dr. Santini recommends moisturizing the skin before and after laser sessions, while protecting it from UV rays.
Ideally, you should be able to avoid the sun for two weeks or, failing that, make sure you have good sun protection.

It's advisable to shave the day before the session, but not to wax.

In fact, the results are considered "long-lasting", so much so that laser hair removal is often referred to as "virtually permanent", since it destroys almost 90% of hair in the end.

Some patients require an annual session to keep their skin smooth and hairless.

During an Nd:Yag laser hair removal session, patients experience a tingling sensation and mild heat. The treatment is therefore considered painless, although it is also possible to apply an anaesthetic cream 1 hour before hair removal for the most sensitive areas.

Dr. Santini has chosen premium Nd:Yag laser hair removal technology, with an integrated cooling system. At the end of the treatment, she also offers an emollient, soothing treatment to alleviate any minor irritation.

Laser hair removal has certain contraindications for darker skin types:

• Pregnancy and breast-feeding, as a precautionary measure.
• White hairs.
• Inflammatory dermatitis or vitiligo.
• Photosensitizing treatments.
• Venous insufficiency or heavy legs.
• Tattooed area (risk of tattoo removal).

Session prices are quoted by Dr. Santini according to the extent of hair growth and the surface area to be treated. A customized quote will be drawn up with a provisional number of sessions. You'll be charged a price per session, or a fixed price, depending on your choice. To find out more about laser hair removal rates, please consult our page on aesthetic medicine rates, or request a personalized consultation.